Explore other categories
Questions and answers
How do I know which filter I have if the label is faded?
This happens all the time with filters that have been exposed to the elements for years. Look for these signs and send us photos:
- Body shape and material: beige laminate, color-injected, coiled...
- How the lid closes: threaded, with screws, or with a clamp (metal band around it). This detail distinguishes different versions of the same model
- Where the valve is located: on top of the filter (top) or on the side (side)—another distinction that creates separate categories in Astralpool
- Diameter: Measure the body at its widest point
Send a photo of the entire filter and another of the lid area via the contact form, and we’ll identify it and tell you which subcategory yours belongs to. You can also call us at 91 128 55 90 and describe those four features.
Sand is coming out of the impellers—what happened?
The diagnosis is almost always the same, regardless of your brand: a broken or loose strainer (or a collector arm, which is what this part is called in some models Astralpool).
Strainer baskets act as a barrier between the sand and the return line. When one cracks, sand enters the pool.
Procedure:
- Shut off the pump and empty the sand filter—this is a good time to replace the sand if it’s several years old
- Check ALL the strainers, not just the broken one: hold them up to the light and inspect the slits
- Replace the damaged ones with parts of the same size from your model’s parts catalog
- Check that all strainer screens are tight when reassembling: a loose one lets sand through just like a broken one
Helpful tip: If what comes out is fine dust rather than grains, the cause is usually worn-out sand that no longer filters effectively—in that case, the solution is to replace the filter media.
Can replacement filter parts be used in a different filter?
Within the same platform, often yes; across brands, almost never. Two cases worth noting:
- Coral platform: the QP Beige, Alaska, Volcán, Neptuno, Ciclón, Rubí, and Superpool TT filters share a large portion of their components—strainers, covers, gaskets, and pressure gauges are common
- Astralpool: Cross-series parts are shared—the 3/4" collector arms and pressure gauges are a good example—but covers, nuts, and bleed valves follow the specific geometry of each filter
And be careful with variants within the same model name: the Millenium threaded version is not the Millenium clamp-on version, and the M-3000 side-mount is not the M-3000 top-mount. That’s why they have separate sections.
The sure way to get it right: each product sheet lists the compatible models. Compare against that list, not based on physical resemblance.
How often should the filter media be changed?
General guideline: every 4–6 seasons with well-balanced water; sooner if the water is very hard or chemical maintenance has been irregular.
Signs of a worn-out filter:
- High pressure that doesn’t drop after backwashing —the definitive sign
- Water that doesn’t clear even though the filter runs for many hours
- Fine sediment returning to the pool
- Sand clumped into blocks when opening the filter
Take advantage of the open filter —this is 90% of the work—to check: all the strainers one by one, the top diffuser, the drain, and install a new lid gasket when closing, even if the old one looks fine.
When refilling, consider filter glass: it filters more finely, requires less water to backwash, and lasts longer than sand. Both are available in filter-sized bags.
The filter cap is leaking water. What should I do?
Don't tighten it any further. If the cylinder head leaks when tightened to the normal torque, the gasket is worn out—and overtightening a worn gasket can cause the cylinder heads to crack and the threads to strip, turning a €20 repair into one costing €100 or more.
Proper replacement procedure, applicable to any model:
- Turn off the pump and depressurize the filter before touching anything
- Clean the gasketseat: accumulated limescale prevents a proper seal even if the gasket is new
- Install the gasket without twisting it, using a thin film of silicone lubricant
- Tighten according to your cover type: threaded covers , by hand (never with a tool); screw-on covers , in a crisscross pattern and gradually; clamp-on covers, to the torque specified by the manufacturer
Look for the gasket in the subcategory for your exact model: this is one of the parts where the geometry varies the most between filters that look identical on the outside.
Is the selector valve here, too?
No: This section covers the filter housing. The selector valve —the one on the control knob with the filtration, backwash, rinse, drain, and closed positions—has its own catalog under “Selector Valve Replacement Parts.”
How to determine which part is faulty:
- Filter housing (this section): sand in the pool, leak from the cover, pressure gauge not working, dripping from the drain, broken diffuser
- Selector valve: water draining through the outlet while in the “filter” position; handle that doesn’t engage the positions properly; leak from the handle shaft
- The connection between the two: dripping at the threaded connection. The parts (loose nuts, cups, O-rings) are usually found in the corresponding filter section
If you’re replacing the entire valve, the equipment catalog is under “selector valves for filters.”
My filter is very old. Are replacement parts still available?
In most cases, yes —and there are two structural reasons for this:
- Platforms last longer than commercial models: a Coral filter from fifteen years ago shares strainers, gaskets, and pressure gauges with models still being manufactured today
- Wear parts are universal within a product family: strainers, gaskets, and pressure gauges change much less frequently than brand names
What can become complicated with very old filters, however, are specific structural parts: covers with outdated geometries, nuts for discontinued fasteners, or entire filter housings.
Before writing off your filter, send us photos of the filter, the label (if any part is still legible), and the broken part via the contact form: in many cases, we can find a current equivalent. And if there really are no replacement parts available, we’ll let you know which current filter fits your system without having to redo the plumbing—see our pool filter catalog.
Where can I buy replacement parts for my water filter system?
On this very page, by selecting your filter model: 38 sections with a complete breakdown of each one, including Astralpool (Cantabric, Aster, Berlin, Millenium in its three versions, Vesubio, Volcano, Mulhacén, Victoria, Uve, Star Plus, Skypool, Rapid-Pool, Monobloc, M-3000, Corona, Ice), Coral (Alaska, Neptuno, Series 92, RPG 2.0), QP (Beige, Azur, Blue, Red, Grana, Rubí, Volcán, Ciclón), ESPA (Filterkit Plus, Neat), and Superpool TT.
Before ordering, please have the following information ready:
- Exact model, including the variant (threaded/clamp, top/side)
- Filter diameter for diffusers and elbows
- The size of the strainer if that’s what you’re replacing: measure from the thread to the tip
Shipping within 24–48 hours to mainland Spain for in-stock replacement parts; free shipping on orders over €150. And if you can’t find the part you need, send a photo via the contact form—we’ll identify it for you.
Replacement Parts for Your Pool's Filtration System: Find the Parts List for Your Filter
When the filtration system fails, it’s almost never “the filtration system” itself that’s at fault—it’s a specific part that costs twenty euros. A broken strainer that lets sand back into the pool, a leaky lid gasket, a pressure gauge that no longer reads. The real problem is something else— figuring out what kind of filter you have and what the part you’re looking for is called.
This page solves both problems. Below you’ll find a directory of the 38 filter models with their own exploded views at Quimipool: Astralpool (Cantabric, Aster, Berlin, Millenium, Vesubio, Volcano, Mulhacén, Victoria, and more), Coral (Alaska, Neptuno, Series 92, RPG 2.0), Productos QP (Beige, Azur, Blue, Red, Grana, Rubí, Volcán, Ciclón), ESPA (Filterkit Plus, Neat), and Superpool TT. And before the directory, here’s a quick guide to identifying your filter in thirty seconds.
All replacement parts are genuine manufacturer parts with a warranty. If you can’t identify your filter using the guide, our technical support team can do so with a photo.
Related Categories: Selector Valve Replacement Parts · Pool Pump Replacement Parts · Filter Media · Pool Filters · Selector Valves · Replacement Parts
Identify Your Filter in 30 Seconds
Before browsing the directory, here are three pieces of information that can all be found in the same place—on the filter label, affixed to the body:
- Brand and model (Cantabric, Aster, Millenium, Alaska, Volcán…). This is what takes you to your subcategory
- Diameter in mm (D.400, D.500, D.600, D.750, D.900). This determines the size of diffusers, elbows, and, on some models, lids and gaskets
- Type of closure: whether the cap is threaded, bolted, or clamped (metal clamp). Several models Astralpool have different versions based on this—Millenium and Vesubio, for example, have their own sections for threaded and clamped caps
Is the label faded? This is normal for filters that have been exposed to the sun for years. Send a photo of the entire filter and another of the cap area via the contact form, and we’ll identify it.
Replacement Parts by Filter Model
Filters Astralpool
Filters Coral
| Model | Replacement Parts |
|---|---|
| Alaska | Coral Spare Parts for Alaska |
| Neptuno | Coral Neptuno Filter Replacement Parts |
| RPG 2.0 | Coral RPG 2.0 Filter Replacement Parts |
| Series 92 | Coral Series 92 Filter Replacement Parts |
Filters Productos QP
| Model | Replacement Parts |
|---|---|
| QP Beige | QP Beige Filter Replacements |
| QP Azur | QP Azur Filter Replacements |
| QP Blue | QP Blue Filter Replacements |
| QP Red | QP Red Filter Replacements |
| QP Grana | QP Grana Filter Replacements |
| QP Ruby | QP Ruby Filter Replacement Parts |
| QP Volcán | QP Volcán Filter Replacement Parts |
| QP Cyclone | QP Cyclone Filter Replacement Parts |
ESPA Filters and Other Brands
| Model | Replacement Parts |
|---|---|
| ESPA Filterkit Plus FKP | ESPA Filterkit Plus filter replacement parts |
| ESPA Neat | ESPA Neat Filter Replacement Parts |
| Superpool TT | Superpool TT Filter Replacement Parts |
| Transversal | Collectors and Diffusers |
Anatomy of a Sand Filter: What Each Part Is Called
The terminology used to describe the parts isn’t intuitive, and ordering the wrong part is the most common mistake. Here’s a guide:
| What you usually say | What's his name? | Where is it? |
|---|---|---|
| “The collectors,” “the fingers” | Strainers (or collector arms on some models) and their distributor | At the bottom, under the sand |
| “The cover” | Cover + cover gasket, separate parts | Top |
| “The ring that secures it” | Lid nut, clamp, or fasteners, depending on the model | Around the cap |
| “The part that breaks up the stream” | Upper diffuser | Under the cap, at the inlet |
| “The gauge” | Pressure gauge | Upper part, threaded |
| “The bottom valve” | Drain or sand bleed | Body base |
| “The position control” | Selector valve | On the side or top of the filter |
Quick Diagnosis: From Symptom to Part
| Symptom | Most Likely Cause | Part to Check |
|---|---|---|
| Sand in the pool | Cracked strainer or return arm | Strainer screens for your model and size; check that all are tight |
| Leak around the cover | Worn gasket | Cover gasket (never overtighten the screws) |
| Cracked lid | Aging due to sun exposure and chemicals | Cap for your model (check thread/clamp/screws) |
| The pressure gauge isn't working | Faulty gauge | Pressure gauge |
| High pressure that does not drop during washing | Saturated or clumped filter media | Sand or filter media |
| The water does not become clearer even after filtering for hours | Media depleted or diffuser broken | Filter media; check the upper diffuser |
| Leak at the base | Damaged drain or purge valve | Drain / sand flush |
| Water draining into the drain while in filtration mode | Inside the valve | Replacement parts for selector valves |
| Leak at the valve-filter connection | Gaskets, loose nuts, or cups | Start with the gaskets |
The rule that prevents half of all breakdowns: pressure wash
Note the pressure reading on the pressure gauge after the filter has just been washed—that’s your baseline. When the pressure rises 0.3–0.5 bar above that, it’s time to wash and rinse. Washing on a schedule rather than based on pressure wastes water or is done too late.
If the pressure doesn’t return to the baseline after flushing, the filter media is saturated: it’s time to replace the media. And if the needle doesn’t move or doesn’t return to zero when the pump is off, replace the pressure gauge—it’s the filter’s only diagnostic tool.
Can’t identify your filter or the part you need? This is the most common question in this section, and it’s easily resolved: call us at 91 128 55 90 or send us a message via the contact form with a photo of the filter, its label, and the part to be replaced. With these three pieces of information, we can find the exact part number, even for older filter models. And remember the routine that prevents the most headaches: when you change the sand, check all the strainers, not just the one you see is broken. See also: replacement selector valves, replacement pool pumps, filter media, and pool filters.
