Spare parts pool pumps

All of this information is on the nameplate, located on the side or top of the motor:

• Full make and model, including the power rating
• Power in CV and kW
• Voltage and power supply: single-phase (220 V, standard household voltage) or three-phase
• Capacitor value in mF, for single-phase models only
• Year or production batch

Many models include the power rating in their name: 75 = 0.75 CV, 100 = 1 CV, 150 = 1.5 CV, with an "M" for single-phase or a "T" for three-phase at the end.

A helpful tip: If your pump came as part of a water treatment kit, the housing may bear a brand name different from the actual manufacturer. Always rely on the motor nameplate.

Is the nameplate worn away? Send a photo of the entire pump and another of the nameplate via the contact form: the shape of the housing, the prefilter, and the type of seal are usually enough to identify it.

It’s almost always air entering through the intake, and the most common spot is the pre-filter cover. Troubleshooting steps, from least expensive to most expensive:

• O-ring on the cover: hardened, flattened, or not seated properly. Clean it, lubricate it with silicone, and if it doesn’t spring back into shape when pinched, replace it. It costs just a few euros and solves most problems
• Cover and locking nut: if cracked or with stripped threads, they won’t tighten properly even if the gasket is new
• Water level in the pool: if it’s below the skimmer, the pump will draw in air directly
• Full baskets: the pump basket and the skimmer basket
• Seals on the suctionfittings: they let in air just like the cap

Troubleshooting tip: With the pump running, bubbles inside the transparent prefilter confirm air ingress. If the prefilter is full and there are no bubbles but no water is coming out, check the impeller and diffuser.

Usually not: that symptom—it receives power (buzzes) but doesn’t have enough power to start—points to a worn-out capacitor, a part that costs about €10. This typically occurs when starting up the unit for the season after months of inactivity.

Checks to perform, always with the pump disconnected from the power source:

• Rule out a mechanical jam: remove the fan cover and check that the shaft turns freely by hand. If it’s seized up due to limescale, the problem isn’t electrical
• Check the capacitor: if it’s swollen, deformed, or shows signs of leakage, it’s dead. Replace it with one of the same value in mF
• Check the terminal box: moisture, rust, or a loose terminal can cause similar symptoms

Safety: Discharge the old capacitor before handling it. If you’re not comfortable working with the electrical components, an electrician can fix it in ten minutes.

The one with the same mF rating as your pump —don't choose it based on size or what fits in the box. The information is listed in two places:

• Printed on the old capacitor: the most reliable reading
• On the motor’snameplate

Why this is critical: The capacitor provides the starting torque. One with too little capacity won’t start the motor; one with too much will overload it and shorten the life of the windings. A poorly chosen €10 part can ruin a motor worth several hundred.

Typical values for residential pool pumps range from 12 to 25 mF depending on power rating, but don’t guess based on the power rating— read the label. You’ll find the capacitors in the section for your brand.

It's the mechanical seal, and you shouldn't let it wear out. The seal separates the hydraulic system from the engine; when it fails, fluid leaks right through that joint.

Why let it go:

• The leak eventually reaches the engine, and then the repair cost jumps from a few dozen euros to several hundred
• Once it starts, it usually gets worse quickly

Before ordering, check the model and year of manufacture on the nameplate: several manufacturers have changed the seal between model years, and the correct part depends on that. At ESPA, for example, there was a change in 2007 for several model lines.

And make the most of the repair: with the turbo open, replace the diffuser gasket and the body O-ring, and check the condition of the turbine and diffuser. It’s just a few euros more and saves you from having to open it up again.

That pattern is the thermal protector (clixon) doing its job: it cuts off the power when the motor overheats and resets once it cools down.

The thermal protector isn’t the problem—it’s just a warning. Find out why the motor is overheating:

• Pre-filter basket full or dirty sand filter: the pump is working hard against a restriction
• Broken fan or missing cover: without cooling, the temperature rises within minutes
• Unventilated enclosure in the middle of August
• Impeller rubbing or shaft turning with difficulty
• Condenser in poor condition or low voltage, causing the motor to draw more current

Only after you’ve ruled out all of these possibilities—and if the shutdown occurs even when the pump is cool and well-ventilated—is the circuit breaker itself the likely culprit.

Never bypass it “to keep it from tripping”: you’d be removing the only protection that prevents the motor from burning out.

Genuine manufacturer parts, with their official warranty. Quimipool operates as an E-Partner for the leading brands in the industry and does not sell generic pump parts.

In a pool pump, this is more important than in other equipment:

• Tolerances: the impeller, diffuser, and mechanical seal operate with very tight clearances. An ill-fitting part will rub, vibrate, or lose performance
• Weather- and chemical-resistant materials: Original plastics feature UV protection, and the seals are made of the appropriate elastomer. Generic parts discolor, harden, and fail within one or two seasons
• Warranty: Installing non-original parts may void the warranty on the entire unit

Each replacement part’s product sheet lists the compatible models as specified by the manufacturer. Always check against that list—not based on the part’s physical resemblance.

The rule of thumb: if the repair costs exceed 60–70% of the price of a new equivalent pump, replace it. In practice:

• Repair without hesitation: impeller, gaskets, cover, nut, capacitor, thermal protector, fan, silent blocks, turbine, diffuser, and mechanical seal. All standard replacement parts are well below that threshold
• Consider replacing the pump when the failure involves the motor (burnt-out windings, bearings), when several serious failures occur at once, or when the pump is no longer powerful enough for your pool

One factor that sometimes tips the scales: the pump is the pool’s biggest electricity consumer. If yours is many years old and runs for long hours in the summer, upgrading to a variable-speed pump can pay for itself sooner than you might think.

But for a one-time breakdown costing €10–30, repair is always the answer. Catalog of new pool pump models.