Spare Parts Pumps Hayward

Check two places:

• The pump housing or the pre-filter cover: Hayward —the model name is clearly printed there
• The motornameplate: in addition to the model, it lists power in CV and kW, voltage, power supply (single-phase or three-phase), and the capacitor value in mF

Pay special attention to the “II”: Powerline and Powerline Plus II are different product lines, just like Starpump and Starpump II, or Super Pump and Super II. Ordering the parts list for the wrong version is the most common mistake with this brand.

Also note the power rating: the impeller, diffuser, and capacitor depend on it.

If the nameplate is worn away, send a photo of the entire pump, the pre-filter cover, and the nameplate via the contact form: the shape of the pre-filter and the pump body is usually enough to identify the model series.

Through the O-ring on the prefilter cover. When it "doesn't draw water," it's almost always because air is entering through the suction port, and that's the most common problem with any pump.

Check in this order (starting with the free fixes):

• Water level in the pool: if it’s below the skimmer, the pump is drawing in air directly
• Full baskets: the one on the pump and the one on the skimmer
• O-ring: Clean it, lubricate it with silicone, and reinstall it so it’s seated properly. If it doesn’t spring back into shape when pinched, replace it
• Cover and latch: A cracked cover or a latch that doesn’t close tightly will let air in even if the gasket is new
• Suction connections: Worn fitting seals let air in just like the lid

Troubleshooting tip: With the pump running, bubbles inside the transparent cover confirm air ingress. If the prefilter is full and there are no bubbles but no water is coming out, check the impeller and diffuser.

You’ll find the gasket and cover in the section for your model in the list above.

A typical symptom of a worn-out capacitor in single-phase motors: the motor receives current (humming) but lacks the torque to turn. This occurs mainly at the start of the season after months of inactivity.

Checks to perform, always with the pump disconnected from the power supply:

• Rule out a mechanical jam: remove the fan cover and check that the shaft turns freely by hand. If it’s seized up due to lime scale, the problem isn’t electrical
• Inspect the capacitor: if it is swollen, deformed, or shows signs of leakage, it is dead. Replace it with one of the same value in mF, which you can read from the old capacitor or the nameplate
• Check the terminal box: moisture, rust, or a loose terminal can cause similar symptoms

Why the value matters: one with lower capacity won’t start the motor; one with higher capacity will overwork it and shorten the life of the windings. A poorly chosen part costing around €10 could ruin the motor.

Safety: Discharge the old capacitor before handling it. If you’re not comfortable with electrical work, an electrician can fix it in ten minutes.

It's the mechanical seal, and you shouldn't let it wear out. The seal separates the hydraulic system from the engine; when it fails, fluid leaks right through that joint.

Why let it go:

• The water eventually reaches the engine, and then the repair cost jumps from a few dozen euros to a new pump
• Once it starts, it progresses quickly: what’s a single drop today will be a puddle in a matter of weeks

It usually appears at the start of the season: the seal dries out during the months of inactivity and no longer seals properly when the engine is started up again.

Before ordering, confirm the exact model (including the “II” if applicable) and power rating. And when installing it, take the opportunity to replace the housing gaskets and inspect the turbine and diffuser: it’s just a few euros more, and the pump is already open anyway.

That pattern is the thermal protector doing its job: it cuts off the power when the motor overheats and resets once it cools down.

The thermal protector isn’t the problem—it’s just a warning. Find out why it’s overheating:

• Pre-filter basket full or dirty sand filter: the pump is working hard against a restriction. This is the #1 cause
• Broken fan or missing cover: without cooling, the temperature rises within minutes
• Unventilated pump house in the middle of August
• Impeller rubbing or shaft having difficulty turning
• Condenser in poor condition or low voltage, causing the motor to draw more current

Only after you’ve ruled out all of these possibilities—and if the shutdown occurs even when the pump is cool and well-ventilated—should you suspect the circuit breaker itself.

Never bypass it “to keep it from tripping”: you’d be removing the only protection that prevents the motor from burning out.

As a general rule, no —and with this brand, it’s important to be especially careful, because the names are very similar.

The most common pitfalls:

• Powerline ≠ Powerline Plus II
• Starpump ≠ Starpump II
• Super Pump ≠ Super II
• Max-Flo ≠ Power-Flo II

Each has its own section in the list on this page for precisely that reason.

What can be shared across model lines are cross-components such as capacitors (which are listed by value in mF, not by model). However, impellers, covers, gaskets, turbines, diffusers, and mechanical seals are specific to each pump’s design.

The sure way to get it right: compare with the models listed on each replacement part’s product page, not based on physical resemblance. And if in doubt, send a photo of the nameplate via the contact form.

The rule of thumb: if the repair costs exceed 60–70% of the price of a new equivalent pump, replace it. In practice:

• Repair without hesitation: impeller, gaskets, cover, seal, capacitor, thermal protector, fan, turbine, diffuser, and mechanical seal. All standard replacement parts are well below that threshold
• Consider replacing thepump when the failure involves the motor (burnt-out windings, bearings), when the housing is cracked, or when several serious failures occur at the same time

One factor that sometimes tips the scales: the pump is the piece of pool equipment that consumes the most electricity. If yours is many years old and runs for long hours in the summer, upgrading to a variable-speed pump can pay for itself sooner than you might think.

But for a one-time breakdown costing €10–40, repair is always the answer. Catalog of new pumps: Hayward and pool pumps.

This section covers pumps. Hayward manufactures a wide range of pool equipment, each with its own catalog:

• Filters: Replacement parts are listed under “Pool Filter Replacement Parts,” organized by filter model
• Pool cleaners: under “pool cleaner parts” Hayward
• Salt chlorinators: under “Salt Chlorinator Parts”

How to tell if the problem is with the pump: it won’t prime or loses prime, hums without starting, leaks between the housing and motor, makes a new noise, or stops on its own and restarts after a while. If, on the other hand, sand appears in the pool or the pressure gauge reads unusually, the problem is with the filter.

One symptom that can be misleading is low flow rate: check the filter pressure gauge. High pressure points to the filter (dirty filter media); low pressure points to a suction problem upstream of the filter.

Search by your model in the list on this page: Super Pump, Super II, Max-Flo, Powerline, Powerline Plus II, Power-Flo II, RS II, Starpump, Starpump II, and Tristar.

Have the information from the nameplate handy before ordering:

• Exact model, including the "II" if applicable
• Power rating in CV, which determines the impeller, diffuser, and capacitor
• Capacitor value in mF, if that’s what you’re looking for

Shipping within 24–48 hours to mainland Spain for in-stock replacement parts; free shipping on orders over €150. Genuine Hayward replacement parts with an official manufacturer’s warranty (E-Partner).