Spare parts for pool lights

Start with what you see from outside the water:

• Recessed spotlight: mounted in a niche built into the wall, with the light fixture housed inside. This is the classic design and the most common type for in-ground pools
• Flat or ultra-flat spotlight: sits practically flush with the pool lining, with very little depth
• Mini dichroic: significantly smaller than the previous models
• FlexiNiche / FlexiSlim: specific product lines from Astralpool with their own unique designs

Next, if possible, look for the model code —07838, 07852, 07847, 00346, 21626—in the installation documentation or on the light fixture itself once you’ve removed it.

Still not sure? Send a photo of the light fixture from above the water, as close to the front as possible, via the contact form. With the trim and mounting type visible, we’ll be able to identify it.

In most installations, yes—and without draining the pool. The general procedure:

• Turn off the power at the circuit breaker panel. Just turning off the light switch isn’t enough
• Loosen the screw securing the floodlight to the niche (usually the top one)
• Gentlypull the floodlight out: most have extra cable coiled inside the niche specifically so you can pull it out to the edge of the pool
• Work on dry land, out of the water: open the floodlight, replace the bulb, install a new gasket, and close it
• Check that it turns on before reinserting it, and reinstall it with the cable neatly coiled

Two important warnings: do not close the floodlight if the interior is not completely dry, and do not reuse the old gasket even if it looks good—it is the only thing preventing water from entering.

If your spotlight doesn’t have enough cable to pull it out, or if you have any concerns about the electrical installation, call an electrician or contact us at 91 128 55 90.

It depends on how long it's been like this, but it's worth a try:

• Unplug the projector and remove it
• Open it up, drain the water, and let it dry completely—not just for a few hours, but for as long as it takes
• Check the lamp and the contacts: if there’s greenish corrosion, clean it or replace the affected parts
• Be sure to install a new gasket: if water got in, the gasket has failed, no matter how good it looks
• Check the gasket seat: limescale or dirt residue will prevent a proper seal even if the gasket is new

If water has been inside for a long time and the electronics or the lamp holder are damaged, you may need a new headlight—but try drying it out and replacing the gasket first.

Prevention: Replace the gasket every time you open the headlight, even if it’s just to replace the bulb. It costs a few euros and is the difference between a working headlight and a water-damaged one.

In many cases, yes, and it’s one of the most cost-effective improvements you can make to a pool:

• Lower energy consumption for the same or more light
• A much longer lifespan than a halogenbulb, which means you’ll have to replace the bulb much less often
• RGB option: colored lights and effects, if you choose a lamp that supports it

The most common approach is to replace the bulb with a PAR56 LED bulb, which is the standard format for recessed spotlights. Here’s what you need to check:

• That your spotlight is PAR56 (the old bulb’s format will indicate this)
• The voltage of your system (usually 12 V) and that the transformer is compatible with the new bulb
• If you want RGB, how the color will be controlled (some are controlled directly from the switch)

If you’d rather replace the entire projector, check out our catalog of LED pool spotlights. And if you’re unsure about compatibility with your system, please contact us via the contact form with a photo of the spotlight and the transformer.

Yes, and that’s a good thing: the trim or ring is the only part of the light fixture visible from the pool, and when it yellows or cracks, it spoils the look of the entire pool even if the light is working perfectly.

It deteriorates due to a combination of sun, chlorine or salt, and the passage of time, and it’s purely a cosmetic part: replacing it doesn’t require tampering with the electrical components beyond removing the projector.

Look for it in the section for your model in the list on this page—each spotlight family has its own, and they aren’t interchangeable across product lines.

Take advantage of the opportunity: if you’re removing the projector to replace the trim, check the gasket and consider replacing it as well. You’ve already done the work.

Not on a schedule: every time you turn on the light. This is the most important rule on this page.

Why:

• The gasket operates under constant compression and is permanently submerged. When you remove it, it loses the shape it had taken on, and when you reinstall it, it no longer seals as well
• It costs just a few euros and protects the entire headlight: if it fails, water gets in and you could damage the bulb, the bulb holder, and the electronics

When reassembling it:

• Clean the seat thoroughly—lime deposits and debris prevent a proper seal
• Install it without twisting and ensure it sits securely in its housing
• Tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern and gradually, without applying excessive force

And check the inside before closing it: it must be completely dry. A single drop of trapped moisture will turn into permanent fog on the lens.

As a general rule, no. Each spotlight family has its own geometry: the niche models don’t share parts with the flat models, nor do the mini dichroic models share parts with the standard models, nor do the FlexiNiche or FlexiSlim lines share parts with the classic models.

And keep in mind that even within the same family, there are slight differences: 07838, 07852, and 07847 are all niche spotlights, but their cross-sections differ slightly.

The parts with the most flexibility:

• Lamps: if your projector is PAR56 format, the lamp is an industry standard
• Colored lenses, depending on the format

Items that don’t allow for approximations: gaskets, trim rings, cross-braces, and fasteners. The surest way to get it right is to go to the section for your model and compare it with the product photos.

And if your spotlight is a Aquasphere, you’ll find both sections (recessed and surface-mounted) in the list above.

Don't hesitate to repair it when the following is faulty:

• The bulb: it’s what burns out, and it’s a consumable
• The gasket: a few euros that prevent bigger problems
• The trim or fasteners: cosmetic or structural parts

Consider replacing the entire headlight when:

• Water has gotten inside and the electronics or the lamp holder are damaged
• The housing is cracked
• You want to switch to a higher-performance LED (RGB, control, greater efficiency) and your old projector doesn’t support it

One argument in favor of replacing very old spotlights: today’s LED spotlights consume much less energy and last much longer, which means you’ll have to open the fixture less often—which is precisely when water ingress problems tend to arise.

And if the recessed housing is in poor condition (not the light itself, but the wall mounting), that’s a separate repair: see our catalog of recessed housings for pool lights.

Search for your model in the list on this page: niche spotlights Astralpool (07838, 07852, PS 07847), flat models (00346, 21626), mini dichroic, FlexiNiche, FlexiSlim, and the Aquasphere.

A buying tip that applies to everyone: if you order a lamp, be sure to add the gasket. You’ll have to open the spotlight anyway, and reinstalling the old gasket is the most common way to end up with water inside the spotlight.

And if you’re looking to change the ambiance of your pool without replacing the light fixture, check out the colored lenses.

Shipping within 24–48 hours to mainland Spain for in-stock replacement parts; free shipping on orders over €150.