Spare parts for chlorinator Zodiac Ei2

The output is listed on the unit's label and in the model name—the EI2 is sold by grams of chlorine per hour, and the replacement electrode must have exactly the same output: the electronics are designed for that specific output.

The three electrodes are listed above with their respective capacities (12 g/h, 20 g/h, and 25 g/h).

Double-check before purchasing, because the electrode cannot be returned:

• Confirm that your unit is an EI2: other Zodiac chlorinators use different electrodes—their catalog is listed under “chlorinator replacement parts” Zodiac
• If you have even the slightest doubt, senda photo of the label via the contact form: we’ll confirm the part number within hours

The electrode gives a warning before it dies. Diagnosis:

• Check the plates: white limescale deposits? That’s just dirt, not a sign of failure—clean it (next question) and test
• Measure the actual salt level (using test strips or a meter, not just the display): after refilling with water, the level drops without warning, and with low salt, any electrode produces little output
• Temperature: Below ~15 °C, all chlorinators naturally reduce output
• The verdict: if, with the correct salt level, warm water, and a clean electrode, the chlorine level still doesn’t reach the maximum output—and the plates show worn coating (light-colored metal areas where there used to be a dark layer)—the electrode is worn out

Replacing it restores the unit to its original performance: the transformer, electronics, and EI2 housing usually have a long life ahead of them. And from the very first day with the new electrode, follow the two practices that extend its life the most: keep the pH at 7.2–7.4 ( less calcium) and use a winterization cap during the winter.

Safe procedure, applicable to any EI2 production run:

• For the pump, loosen the nut with the standard wrench and remove the electrode
• Soak it in very dilute hydrochloric acid (1 part acid to 10 parts water, always adding the acid to the water) or in a cell-specific cleaner
• Let it sit only until the scale stops bubbling —minutes, not hours. Rinse thoroughly with water and reassemble with the inspected O-ring
• Never scrape the plates with metal objects or use concentrated acid: the chlorine-generated coating will not regenerate

And the preventive measure that reduces cleaning to almost zero: a pH strictly maintained at 7.2–7.4. Salt electrolysis naturally raises the pH; without compensating for this, limescale on the plates is a matter of weeks. If you’re battling limescale every month, your problem is the pH, not the electrode.

The circuit board (€269) is the last step, not the first. Correct order:

• Step 1 — Fuse: The 2.5 A M205 is the first thing to blow during a power surge. Replace it with the device unplugged. If the new one blows again, there’s a problem further down the line: don’t keep replacing fuses
• Step 2 — Power cord: cuts, crushing, connector. Replacement: AC power cord kit (€36.80)
• Step 3 — Electrode connections: greenish corrosion on the connectors = poor contact. Also check the connector cover, which is designed to prevent precisely that kind of moisture
• Step 4 — Transformer/PCB diagnosis: with the symptoms noted (what the display shows, which LEDs light up), consult technical support before deciding between the transformer (€166.10) and the PCB (€269)

Following this procedure turns many “€269 breakdowns” into repairs costing between €5 and €37.

It’s the best €19.24 investment an EI2 owner can make. The winterization plug replaces the electrode during the winter:

• Why: In cold water (below ~15 °C), electrolysis produces almost no usable chlorine but continues to wear down the plates’ coating. Leaving the electrode installed over the winter is a waste of its lifespan for no benefit
• How: At the end of the season, remove the electrode (using the official wrench, with the pump turned off), install the cap with a O-ring in good condition, and the winter filtration system will continue to circulate normally
• The electrode: free of limescale, dry, and stored indoors until spring

Result: extra seasons of life for a part costing €300–640. In chlorinators, this is the equivalent of winterizing the battery in robotic pool cleaners—the inexpensive step that separates equipment that lasts from that which doesn’t.

Springtime Classic: Limescale has seized the thread. The method that opens it without breaking it:

• Use the official torque wrench (€24.95): it distributes the force evenly across the entire circumference of the nut. Metal pry tools concentrate the force at a single point and crack the plastic
• Limescale on the threads: apply a descaler or vinegar to the joint, let it sit, and try again. Repeat if necessary—patience is cheaper than the nut
• Never work on it when it’s cold or in a hurry: engineering plastics perform best in mild weather

If the nut ends up cracked or with stripped threads, a replacement costs €31.90—and when reassembling, tighten firmly by hand with the wrench, without using excessive force: it’s the O-ring that seals, not brute force. The annual winterization cap routine also prevents the threads from sitting unused for months—threads that are used don’t seize up.

As a general rule, no —each Zodiac product line (EI2, TRi, Hydroxinator, GenSalt...) comes with its own electrode and electronics, and the parts are not interchangeable across product families.

How to find the right ones for your unit:

• Identify the model on the unit’s label (front or side)
• Go to the Zodiac chlorinator replacement parts page, where each model has its own subcategory
• If the label is illegible, send a photo of the unit via the contact form and we’ll identify it

Minor exceptions: Some piping installation parts (collars, clamps, adapters) are shared among units of the same brand with the same mounting type—each product’s specifications page lists the exact compatibility.

And if you’re looking to replace the entire chlorinator, the current catalog is available under “salt chlorinators” at Zodiac.

Let's be clear. It's worth replacing the electrode when:

• The rest of the equipment is working properly (turns on, regulates, no electronic errors)
• The EI2 is reasonably old and its output is still appropriate for your pool

Consider replacing the unit when:

• A worn-out electrode coincides with an electronics failure (circuit board or transformer): the combined cost approaches the price of a new chlorinator
• The unit’s output is no longer sufficient for your pool, and you’re always running it at 100% capacity
• You want features that your current unit doesn’t have (built-in pH control, app control)

The 60–70% rule: if the repair cost exceeds that percentage of the price of an equivalent unit, replace it. The catalog is available at Zodiac under “salt chlorinators,” and the general comparison is available at “salt chlorinator.”

One argument in favor of repairing: with the hibernation plug and pH controlled, the next electrode will last longer than the first one.

On this page, you'll find the complete parts list with direct links to each part:

• Electrodes: 12, 20, and 25 g/h — with free shipping on orders over
• Electrode assembly: O-ring, nut, special wrench, connector cap, and hibernation plug
• Electronics: fuse, power and cell cables, transformer, and PCB
• Installation: collars, clamp, EU/UK adapters, and accessories

Two rules for ordering: confirm that your unit is an EI2 and check its flow rate in g/h (label). The electrode cannot be returned—it’s better to send a photo of the label via the contact form than to return the box.

Shipping within 24–48 hours to mainland Spain for in-stock replacement parts; free shipping on orders over 150 €. Genuine Zodiac replacement parts with an official manufacturer’s warranty (E-Partner).